The Design Process with Maison Du Soir

Have you ever been just a tad bit curious about a Designer's design process?

I have.

When I worked at Nordstrom way back when, I developed a true appreciation for how certain designers made their clothes and the amount of time it takes to go from the design stage to holding an actual item but I have never really understood exactly what happened.

It has always been something I have admired and wanted to know more about.

Last week I sat down with Courtney Kates the designer behind Maison Du Soir,  a sleepwear line that I adore and have featured previously here on the blog, to chat about her design process.  She patiently walked me through each step, from start to finish.  It was incredibly fascinating.  I had to share because I think we sometimes forget how hard designers work to create pieces that we love.  Here is a little walk through the Maison Du Soir process...

Picking out the fabric and colors for a collection

What originally caught my eye when I first saw Maison Du Soir were the colors used and the beautiful silk selected.  Courtney does an incredible job of bringing beautiful color combinations together.  Can you imagine how fun it is to select from so many options?!

Here is a look at the color combinations and silk selected for the Fall 2014 collection.

Creating the drawings

After the colors and fabrics have been selected, it is time to start designing.  Courtney will begin by drawing it out, assigning colors and creating different styles.  Then she will move to having tech sketches created, which will pull together the line as a whole and allow her to make sure that all the pieces work together.  These tech sketches will provide not only the design but specific instructions for the bindings and hems.

Patterns and Salesmen Samples

Once the tech sketches are confirmed, it is time to move to paper pattern making and the creation of a Salesmen sample.  The Salesmen sample is the sample that will be brought to accounts to showcase the collection prior to production.  Below is a Salesmen sample from a new piece launching this Fall.

Grading

Once the paper pattern has been confirmed, it is time to make different sizes.  The pattern is digitized and then graded to get the cuts needed for each size.  As you move up in each size, the pattern becomes a certain percentage larger.

Calculating your fabric

Ever wonder how a designer knows how much fabric they are going to need?  Once the patterns are created for each size, a marker is created on fabric paper based on how many of each size Courtney would like and printed for the cutter. Below is a small scale example.

Time to cut!

Both the marker and rolls of fabric are taken to the Cutter and the cutting begins! 

The Sewing

Once all the fabric is cut (can you imagine the number of pieces of fabric you are now responsible for?!) it is off to the Sewer.  When arriving at the Sewer, Courtney must ensure she has EVERYTHING.  The fabric, the elastic, the buttons, the labels, the hang tags.  EVERYTHING.  Once the Sewer has everything, the final products are created.

The Advertising

On top of having the pieces created, Courtney works on putting together a media kit to accompany the Salesmen samples to be delivered to different accounts and publications.  This kit will include the photo shoot and a line sheet, showing each item available in the collection, along with the fabric options.

The End

At the end, a beautiful collection is created and as a designer, Courtney hopes everyone loves it as much as she does.

And I do.

  

Then she starts all over for the next season.

Sitting with Courtney and talking through this entire process, you can feel the passion she has towards her design and it makes me love Maison Du Soir that much more.  I also have a new found respect for all the time, work and love that is poured into creating just one collection.  And she creates a couple collections a year!  It is amazing. 

Makes you think a little more about the clothes you own and how much was put into creating that one piece doesn't it?

Thank you Courtney for sharing your process.  You're the best!

I can't wait to see the final Fall 2014 collection!

If you would like to preview the entire Maison Du Soir line, click here.

You really should.  It is gorgeous.

Maison Du Soir

"A well spent day brings happy sleep" - Leonardo DaVinci

Sleep and I used to have a love/hate relationship.

I knew I needed it, but I felt that it got in the way of fun and exciting things that I would perhaps miss out on.  

I would stay up late and wake up early.

Then I grew up.

And I LOVE sleep.

The hubby and I have developed a ritual that begins as soon as all the kids are in bed.

I wash my face, take out my contacts and put on my pajamas.

Whatever is not done that day (emptying the dishwasher, folding laundry, etc.) will have to wait until tomorrow.

We curl up on the couch with a cup of tea and chat about the day, catch one of our favorite shows (right now it is Suits and West Wing reruns) and enjoy the only alone time we get during the week.

Then it is off to bed in complete exhaustion, ready to catch as much rest as we can before the next day begins.

It is my favorite.

With a new found love of rest and sleep, I have also developed a love for pajamas.

There was a time when I would just throw on a tank and shorts or pants and not think twice.  

Lately though, I am obsessed with pajamas.

Cute, comfortable pajamas sets that look good enough to wear during the day.

My current favorite is Maison Du Soir.

Maison Du Soir is a Southern California based line created by Courtney Kates.  Courtney recognized that there was a lot of focus on women's daywear but not nearly enough attention on our sleepwear.  Why look fabulous by day and frumpy at night?  I like her way of thinking, don't you?  Courtney set out to create a sleepwear line that focused on softness, quality of fabric and fit.  She nailed it.  Each collection offers beautiful prints and silhouettes that are flattering, can be mixed and matched, and work for even the fussiest of sleepers.  You cannot image how soft and comfortable this line is.  Whether you are wearing the silk or cotton pieces, you will want to live in them.  Plus, when someone knocks on your front door early in the morning, before you have gotten dressed, you won't have to hide behind the door anymore.  You will actually look put together!

Courtney's Spring collection has just launched and it is absolutely stunning.  I am obsessed with the florals and pinks (which is big for me because I am normally not a pink person) and I have been currently living in the Dahlia Dress and Peony Shorts.  Next on my list?  The Magnolia Foral Top with the Jaclyn Floral Shorts.  The entire LookBook just offers too much goodness.

You can find Maison Du Soir in their online shop or here in Southern California at numerous boutiques listed here. 

Sweet Dreams.